This article by Suvajit Halder gives a long and detailed history of Bengali cuisine, as affected by migration, colonization, trade, technology, agriculture, religion and medicine, through texts dating back to the 11th Century.
Different sets of ingredients and techniques come in and out of discussion, but so do systems of talking and thinking about food, and many coexist simultaneously. There’s a part I really like which talks about how the enthusiasm for food of 13th-century gourmands has left a real wealth of historical texts discussing both prescriptions for the sequences of different dishes, and dishes and recipes themselves. I don’t think of this piece so much as an ‘ontology’ in and of itself, but a history that links together webs of intersecting ideas about food.
This piece is also a reminder that taxonomies of food by ‘national cuisine’ are slippery: not only is Bengali cuisine already split by a national border, but events such as the introduction (and subsequent promotion by the colonial British administration to drive profits) of ingredients like potatoes and chillies, or the slow adoption of Islamic cooking techniques during the 12th-18th centuries are all influences on ‘traditional’ recipes.